BRETTUNS VILLAGE
LEATHER CRAFT SUPPLIES
Common Leather Craft Terminology
Listed below are some common terms used when describing leathers or tanning processes. There are many, many more terms that get tossed around.
Altered Leather
Leather with its original
surface of the skin or hide removed to get rid of imperfections in the
original grain surface. A new grain can be embossed into the leather.
Aniline Finish
Drum-dyed leather finished
to have a soft feel, usually coated with protein, resin, lacquer or waxes.
Brush Colored
The application of dyestuff
to leather being laid on a table, with a brush. Some also call this
'hand tipping'.
Buffed
Leather that has been sueded
and can also be referred to as snuffed, nubuck or grain-sueded leather.
Calf Hide
Leather taken from an immature
bovine. Calf hides are broken down further based on size of the hide:
Kip: Calf hide that is less than 14.75 square feet
Chrome TannedExtreme: Calf hide that is between 14.75 sq ft and 18 sq ft
Leather tanned in chromium salts resulting in soft and mellow hides receptive to excellent color variety.
Cordovan
Leather made from the tight,
firm shell portion of horse butts that has fine pores and a characteristic
finish. We sell this type of leather here.
Crock
The coloring matter that
rubs off of poorly dyed leather. If it peels off the surface or you
find it on your hands after handling, your leather is crocking.
Crust
Leather that has been tanned
but not finished. Crust leathers are often colored/dyed, but no finishing
oils or treatments have been added.
Cowhide
OK, this may seem obvious,
but cowhide is the hide of a cow. Rocket science.
Degrained Leather
Leather from which the grain
has been removed after tanning, by splitting, abrading or other process.
Very smooth.
Drawn Grain
Shrunken, shriveled or wrinkled
grain surface of leather.
Distressed
Buffing surface to create
uneven coloration and markings for a weathered look
Embossed
Prints, commonly reptile
or western patterns, are heat and/or pressure pressed onto leather surface.
Some will use this term interchangeably with words like 'plated' or 'fake
grain.'
Fat Wrinkle
Wrinkles in the grain of
leather caused by fat deposits in the animal. Yet another reason
to get your cows into a gym.
Finish
A surface application on
the leather to color, protect, or mask imperfections. Glossy clear
coats, for example.
Full Grain
The outside original skin
or hide that has had the hair removed, but has not been corrected or altered.
It possesses the original grain of the animal.
Grain
The outside of the hide
or skin consisting of the pores, wrinkles and other characteristics that
constitutes the natural texture of the leather.
Grain, Embossed
An artificial grain pressed
into the surface of top grain leather with original grain removed.
Like plated leathers.
Glazed Finish
Surface is polished to a
high luster by pressurized glass or steel rollers, to yield something like
patent leathers.
Leather
A generic term used for
all kinds of tanned animal hides or skins.
Matte Finish
A flat or dull finish.
Mineral Tanned
Leather tanned by mineral
substances like the salts of chromium/ aluminum/ zirconium.
Napa
Commonly refers to the surface
or top grain of any soft leather hide.
Natural Grain
A leather that retains the
full original grain.
Nubuck
Lightly buffed top grain
to a very fine nap that appears smoother than suede.
Oil Tanned
Leather tanned with fish
oils giving a soft and pliable leather like chamois. Luckily, it
doesn't smell fishy at all.
Patent
Heavily finished to give
a highly lustrous, shiny appearance.
Pearlized
Spray-on finish giving pearlized
(shimmery) effect.
Pigskin
From pigs or hogs, commonly
used for suede.
Perforated
The process of punching,
piercing, or die cutting small holes to form a pattern in the leather.
Plating, Plated Leather
Pressing leather with a
heated metal plate under high pressure. Similar to embossing.
Reconstituted Leather
Material composed of collagen
fibers obtained from ground up hide pieces that have been constructed into
a fibrous mat.
Saddle Leather
Vegetable-tanned cattlehide
leather for harnesses and saddles, usually of a natural tan shade and rather
flexible.
Shearling
Natural lamb/sheep pelts
with the leather side often dyed and the hair typically cropped (sheared)
to some uniform length.
Side (or Side Leather)
Half of a full cowhide,
cut right up the backbone. In general, sides run about 18 to 22 square
feet of total surface area.
Split
When a thick hide is split,
the term refers to the top surface which looks like suede but is not as
soft. Splits are left overs, but can be made into excellent leathers.
Suede
Leathers that are finished
by buffing the underside of a hide to produce a velvet-like nap.
Snuffed
The grain surface abraded
with brushes, emery wheel or sandpaper. It is done to remove defective
grain or for sueding the surface of leather.
Top Grain
The outside surface of the
animal, often buffed or sanded to smooth the top of the leather and make
it uniform and smooth. Some top grain leathers are embossed with
imitation patterns (lizard, gator, etc).
Trim or Trimmings
The removal of parts of
a skin or hide not suitable for making leather, such as portions on the
outer edges.
Unfinished Leather
An aniline-dyed, naked leather
with no additional application intended to finish, color or treat in a
way that would alter the natural characteristics of the leather.
Weight
The weight of leather is
measured in ounces per square foot. More information on thickness
is available here.
How Many Square Feet Do I Need?
If you know how many yards of fabric you're going to need you can convert this to standard, full hides of upholstery cowhide using the following:
Each yard of 54" fabric
= 18 square feet of leather
Each yard of 50" fabric
= 16 square feet of leather
Each yard of 36" fabric
= 12 square feet of leather
Keep in mind that with leather,
no matter how efficient you are at laying out and cutting the various pieces,
roughly 20-25% of the hide will NOT be useable.
Number of Square feet x
1.25 = Approx. square feet of leather you need to order